Thursday, 20 December 2012

The joys of motorcycling


This post is a bit of a cheat, as most of the material is lifted directly from T E Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) writing about riding his Brough Superior motorcycle in Lincolnshire.

The extract below is from The Mint, which Lawrence wrote while based at RAF Cranwell between 1925-26. His Brough Superior was the fastest vehicle on the road at that time. It would have been good for 100mph and the SS100 came with a guarantee that it would achieve that speed.

Lawrence christened the bike Boanerges, which means 'sons of thunder'. According to Mark 3:17 that was the name given by Jesus to James and John to reflect their impetuous nature.

As a motorcycle rider, I recognise the joy in this piece of writing, although I've never raced biplanes on my BMW. I guess the road he describes is the A15 which follows the route of Ermine Street (the Roman road) along this stretch and is dead straight undulating up and down on the edge of the Wolds. I would often ride this route home from Howden on my BMW R1150GS, which also had a name - Beaky. It's a very different road today - solid white lines mean overtaking is restricted, lorries and caravans act as mobile road blocks, there are a string of speed cameras and a white van waiting impatiently to pull out on you at every junction (or so it seems, sometimes). However, this shared experience 80 years apart puts me absolutely in touch with Lawrence. When he talks about feeling the power as the throttle opened I know exactly what he's talking about, as will any motorcyclist. Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.

I wonder what Lawrence would have made of Beaky? A twistgrip throttle instead of a lever would have amazed him and foot-operated gear-change (with six gears) would be mind-boggling, so say nothing of decent suspension, disc brakes with ABS and over 90bhp. I think he'd have been amazed at electric starting as he clearly struggled with a kick-start. Mind you, petrol at almost £6 a gallon might have curtailed his rather extended shopping trips - although there was no Tesco in those days.

I think Beaky would wipe the floor with Boanerges. I'd have the drop on acceleration, although Lawrence would have kept it pinned long after I'd backed off to make sure the junction was clear.

T. E. Lawrence, The Mint

PART III



16:  THE ROAD

The extravagance in which my surplus emotion expressed itself lay on the road. So long as roads were tarred blue and straight; not hedged; and empty and dry, so long I was rich. Nightly I'd run up from the hangar, upon the last stroke of work, spurring my tired feet to be nimble. The very movement refreshed them, after the day-long restraint of service. In five minutes my bed would be down, ready for the night: in four more I was in breeches and puttees, pulling on my gauntlets as I walked over to my bike, which lived in a garage-hut, opposite. Its tyres never wanted air, its engine had a habit of starting at second kick: a good habit, for only by frantic plunges upon the starting pedal could my puny weight force the engine over the seven atmospheres of its compression.

Boanerges' first glad roar at being alive again nightly jarred the huts of Cadet College into life. 'There he goes, the noisy bugger,' someone would say enviously in every flight. It is part of an airman's profession to be knowing with engines: and a thoroughbred engine is our undying satisfaction. The camp wore the virtue of my Brough like a flower in its cap. Tonight Tug and Dusty came to the step of our hut to see me off. 'Running down to Smoke, perhaps?' jeered Dusty; hitting at my regular game of London and back for tea on fine Wednesday afternoons.

Boa is a top-gear machine, as sweet in that as most single-cylinders in middle. I chug lordlily past the guard-room and through the speed limit at no more than sixteen. Round the bend, past the farm, and the way straightens. Now for it. The engine's final development is fifty-two horse-power. A miracle that all this docile strength waits behind one tiny lever for the pleasure of my hand.

Another bend: and I have the honour of one of England's straightest and fastest roads. The burble of my exhaust unwound like a long cord behind me. Soon my speed snapped it, and I heard only the cry of the wind which my battering head split and fended aside. The cry rose with my speed to a shriek: while the air's coldness streamed like two jets of iced water into my dissolving eyes. I screwed them to slits, and focused my sight two hundred yards ahead of me on the empty mosaic of the tar's gravelled undulations.

Like arrows the tiny flies pricked my cheeks: and sometimes a heavier body, some house-fly or beetle, would crash into face or lips like a spent bullet. A glance at the speedometer: seventy-eight. Boanerges is warming up. I pull the throttle right open, on the top of the slope, and we swoop flying across the dip, and up-down up-down the switchback beyond: the weighty machine launching itself like a projectile with a whirr of wheels into the air at the take-off of each rise, to land lurchingly with such a snatch of the driving chain as jerks my spine like a rictus.

Once we so fled across the evening light, with the yellow sun on my left, when a huge shadow roared just overhead. A Bristol Fighter, from Whitewash Villas, our neighbour aerodrome, was banking sharply round. I checked speed an instant to wave: and the slip-stream of my impetus snapped my arm and elbow astern, like a raised flail. The pilot pointed down the road towards Lincoln. I sat hard in the saddle, folded back my ears and went away after him, like a dog after a hare. Quickly we drew abreast, as the impulse of his dive to my level exhausted itself.

The next mile of road was rough. I braced my feet into the rests, thrust with my arms, and clenched my knees on the tank till its rubber grips goggled under my thighs. Over the first pot-hole Boanerges screamed in surprise, its mud-guard bottoming with a yawp upon the tyre. Through the plunges of the next ten seconds I clung on, wedging my gloved hand in the throttle lever so that no bump should close it and spoil our speed. Then the bicycle wrenched sideways into three long ruts: it swayed dizzily, wagging its tail for thirty awful yards. Out came the clutch, the engine raced freely: Boa checked and straightened his head with a shake, as a Brough should.

The bad ground was passed and on the new road our flight became birdlike. My head was blown out with air so that my ears had failed and we seemed to whirl soundlessly between the sun-gilt stubble fields. I dared, on a rise, to slow imperceptibly and glance sideways into the sky. There the Bif was, two hundred yards and more back. Play with the fellow? Why not? I slowed to ninety: signalled with my hand for him to overtake. Slowed ten more: sat up. Over he rattled. His passenger, a helmeted and goggled grin, hung out of the cock-pit to pass me the 'Up yer' RAF randy greeting.

They were hoping I was a flash in the pan, giving them best. Open went my throttle again. Boa crept level, fifty feet below: held them: sailed ahead into the clean and lonely country. An approaching car pulled nearly into its ditch at the sight of our race. The Bif was zooming among the trees and telegraph poles, with my scurrying spot only eighty yards ahead. I gained though, gained steadily: was perhaps five miles an hour the faster. Down went my left hand to give the engine two extra dollops of oil, for fear that something was running hot: but an overhead Jap twin, super-tuned like this one, would carry on to the moon and back, unfaltering.

We drew near the settlement. A long mile before the first houses I closed down and coasted to the cross-roads by the hospital. Bif caught up, banked, climbed and turned for home, waving to me as long as he was in sight. Fourteen miles from camp, we are, here: and fifteen minutes since I left Tug and Dusty at the hut door.

I let in the clutch again, and eased Boanerges down the hill along the tram-lines through the dirty streets and up-hill to the aloof cathedral, where it stood in frigid perfection above the cowering close. No message of mercy in Lincoln. Our God is a jealous God: and man's very best offering will fall disdainfully short of worthiness, in the sight of Saint Hugh and his angels.

Remigius, earthy old Remigius, looks with more charity on and Boanerges. I stabled the steel magnificence of strength and speed at his west door and went in: to find the organist practising something slow and rhythmical, like a multiplication table in notes on the organ. The fretted, unsatisfying and unsatisfied lace-work of choir screen and spandrels drank in the main sound. Its surplus spilled thoughtfully into my ears.

By then my belly had forgotten its lunch, my eyes smarted and streamed. Out again, to sluice my head under the White Hart's yard-pump. A cup of real chocolate and a muffin at the teashop: and Boa and I took the Newark road for the last hour of daylight. He ambles at forty-five and when roaring his utmost, surpasses the hundred. A skittish motor-bike with a touch of blood in it is better than all the riding animals on earth, because of its logical extension of our faculties, and the hint, the provocation, to excess conferred by its honeyed untiring smoothness. Because Boa loves me, he gives me five more miles of speed than a stranger would get from him.

At Nottingham I added sausages from my wholesaler to the bacon which I'd bought at Lincoln: bacon so nicely sliced that each rasher meant a penny. The solid pannier-bags behind the saddle took all this and at my next stop a (farm) took also a felt-hammocked box of fifteen eggs. Home by Sleaford, our squalid, purse-proud, local village. Its butcher had six penn'orth of dripping ready for me. For months have I been making my evening round a marketing, twice a week, riding a hundred miles for the joy of it and picking up the best food cheapest, over half the country side.


Feedback from Mike Davis: I have a brilliant DVD made a few years back by a Dutch fan of Lawrence and Brough Superiors. I can really recommend it as a purchase. Here is a link:

Wednesday, 18 April 2012

My new bike - BMW R1200 ST


I sold my BMW R1150GS a couple of years ago. I just wasn't riding it. In my last year with the bike, I did only 2,000 miles and all but 500 of those was on a trip to France with Tom. I got a pretty good price for it (around £4,000) and used some of the money to buy a couple of old classics - a 1961 Matchless G2 and a 1953 BSA C11. I fondly imagined myself pottering about the countryside at a steady, sensible pace and polishing the chromework on sunny Sundays.

Of course it hasn't worked out like that, old bikes need loads of TLC and there's always a list of jobs; jobs that I don't have time to do. I've put both of them on SORNs (statutory off-road notices) and they've both been sitting unused in the garage, slowly dripping oil onto my nice clean floor.

I've decided I need to put them into dry storage until I've retired and can spend some more time fiddling and fettling. Truth is that an old bike is bloody scary on the road. The BSA feels terrifying at 50mph, brakes are hopeless, the front forks are as soft as butter and you can see why sprung-hub technology was replaced with the swing-arm. You wouldn't want to ride them in traffic or on a busy A-road.

Anyway Tom got himself a bike last year - an old Suzuki SV650, which he picked up at a really good price and has been riding around London and to work. Ever since he got that, I've had a hankering to get a modern bike and decided that if I got a decent bonus this year, I'd spend some of it on a bike as a treat.

I didn't want another GS, but I did want a BMW - I really like the character of the bike, the engineering, design and build quality. The GS is a great bike and I've really enjoyed riding them, but thanks to Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman's Long Way Round travelogue it is so common (it's been the best-selling bike in the UK for quite a few years). I'm not sure why, but I wanted to get something a little quirky. I like the 1150RS and I'd also had a quick go on an R1200ST, so I thought one or other of those would do nicely.

There are quite a few RS models around from £2,500 to £4,500 and the ST comes in at around £5-6,000. I thought I might stretch to an ST if I could get one with luggage for about five grand. I've been keeping an eye out on Autotrader and saw a mint RS, but the phone number given was "outgoing calls only" and there was no e-mail address; then I saw a nice ST with luggage and within my budget. That was a "Phonesafe" number allocated by Autotrader to prevent calls from canvassers and that number didn't work either. Two nice bikes and I couldn't make contact with either seller.

Tom suggested that I tried eBay and I found a pretty good looking ST at £4,400. I contacted the seller and arranged to go to see the bike just after Easter. He was a Canadian, living in a lovely little mews not far from Paddington station and I went round there with Tom after work. I was looking for a catch because the bike was so much cheaper than anything else I'd seen, but there didn't seem to be one.

The chap who was selling it (called Zac) was spending a lot of time working in Africa and he wasn't getting any time for the grand European tours he had planned. The bike was not the right tool for London traffic and clearly hadn't been used a great deal - it was dusty from sitting in the garage and he'd had the battery on charge. He didn't seem comfortable with the bike - moving it about, starting it, putting it on its stand - so we think he'd bought it with good intentions a year ago and hadn't ridden it much since. The clock was way out of time - an indication that the battery has been allowed to run flat and when I asked him how to zero the trip, he didn't know. He was going to look through the handbook, when I saw a button on the handlebars marked "TRIP".

Anyway, it was in good condition, no scratches or serious marks, no sign of damage through accident or dropping it and it came with two panniers, plus a rack for a top box. I pointed out that the rear tyre was squared off and I'd want to get a new tyre on, so I said I'd offer him the asking price less a new tyre - £4,250 - and he said yes without blinking. He was off to Africa the following Monday (this was Tuesday after Easter) so I left him £100 cash as a deposit and arranged to collect the bike on Friday after work and give him a banker's draft for the balance.

The week was sunshine and showers and it looked as if I might be in for a wet ride home on the day. Actually, I was lucky with the weather. I picked the bike up in bright sunshine and set off for home. The route was fairly easy - straight past Paddington station onto the Edgware Road, then up through St John's Wood and West Hampstead, across the North Circular to pick up the A1 at Hendon.

Once on the A1 I was on very familiar territory. The bike rides like the flat twins I'm used to, a little lighter than the GS and with a bit more power. Handlebars are narrower than the GS, the riding position is slightly forward and the small fairing gives good protection from wind blast without buffeting. The screen will actually raise a few inches, but I don't think I'll need to do that.

Handling was a bit strange, partly due to my being rusty on a bike and partly due to that squared-off tyre. Left handers were OK, but on right-handers, the bike didn't seem to want to turn in and then when it did, it dropped into the bend a bit fast. I will get the rear tyre sorted out in a few weeks and then it should be OK. I came back along the A1 at a decent pace - steady 80mph, with the odd blast up to 90mph. Judging by the speed of other traffic the speedo is reading about 10mph fast at 90. I was a little worried to see the fuel gauge go down so quickly - it went from full to under halfway in 90 miles, but when I filled it up this morning it took only 10 litres from a capacity of 21. If he hadn't brimmed the tank, I guess I was getting north of 45mpg on the way home, which isn't too bad considering there was 10 miles of London traffic and then 80 of high-speed cruising with panniers fitted and into a stiff headwind.

On Saturday, I went to price up a top box, but they were £350 and the BMW official box is quite small. I did buy an overall-type one-piece suit that I could get on over a work suit so I can ride to the station in the morning. I did that this morning for the first time and it seemed to work OK. Bikes park free and I'd be covering 20 miles a day rather than 40 in the car if Margaret is running me in and picking me up. That means I'm halving my fuel bills and could save up to £15 per week. It also means Margaret doesn't have to get up at 5.30am to run me into the station. She doesn't mind, she says, but it is a bit of an early start.

I cleaned the bike on Sunday (between hailstorms) and it has polished up very nice. There's a bit of surface rust on the frame and some slight corrosion to the wheel rim, but that's very minor. Now the bike is dust free and the chrome polished, it looks better than ever.